Craft, Culture A Serendipitous Find
Rarely does it happen that one is privy to an introduction which turns out to be highly interesting and talented, prompting coverage in our CSM Indian Edition. But this time around, Deepti Sudhindra turned out to be a remarkable and pleasant surprise introduction. I was recommended by a mutual friend to meet her and discuss my ideas of aesthetics à la Sir Roger Scruton. I wish to safely state that this was what one would call a ‘Serendipitous’ find from a CSM India Edition media perspective. A very brief telecon introduction followed by a Sunday evening conversation has resulted in this interview exploring her life, journey as a jewelry designer, one of the first trained jewelers in India, and her ideas and vision for the future. What really impressed me is her congruence with the idea of celebrating the ‘local’ or the traditions associated with one’s homeland and heritage which she incorporated into her jewelry design in tune with the philosophy of Sir Roger Scruton. Yet there is a fascinating global, or should I say Anglosphere touch with the inspiration to ‘look inward’ coming from a Welsh Professor of Deepti while studying in Mumbai. Deepti’s passionate celebration of Indian heritage is very open and global with a strong desire to share with the wider world and at the same time absorbing and assimilating the external influences which would positively shape the jewelry design. In many ways, Deepti’s journey is a spiritual experience which is the essence of Indian tradition and heritage. As a special on International Women’s Day 2024, I wish to share this interview with our readers, a tribute and salutation to a brave and ingenious Indian woman entrepreneur. Deepti’s jewelry can be found here: www.thejewelryproject.com
Hello, it’s very nice to meet you on this Sunday evening. So, let’s start this conversation about your life and experience. How did you embark on the voyage, a journey as a jewelry designer in India?
Embarking on my journey as a jeweler was a transformative experience, fueled by the support of my parents and my own unwavering conviction. Despite hailing from a middle-class family in a time when jewelry design was unheard of in India, my parents encouraged me to follow my heart, granting me the freedom to pursue my passion and intuition. Their progressive mindset was truly a gift, empowering me to forge my own path in a field vastly different from the conventional career choices of my family. My journey to the bazaars of Jaipur, the heart of India’s jewelry industry, was an adventure in itself. Initially departing for Mumbai to engage in theater work at the NCPA (National Center for Performing Arts), I seized the opportunity to collect funds for my Jaipur trip. Traveling solo as a woman was unconventional and discouraged at that point in time, so I kept my plans secret until I reached Jaipur. With determination and resourcefulness, I embarked on this solo expedition, armed with a half-paid ticket and a fervent ambition to explore the bazaars and realize my vision. In Jaipur, where women in business were predominantly from overseas, I faced skepticism and scrutiny due to my Indian identity. Despite these challenges, I persevered, immersing myself in the vibrant atmosphere of the bazaars and beginning to lay the groundwork for what would later become The Jewelry Project. The journey was not without its challenges. To gain insights into the industry, I also worked for two years in the mainstream jewelry commercial factory assembly line, absorbing the tricks of the trade. It was a calculated risk—I knew that if my entrepreneurial venture failed, I could fall back on this experience, ensuring some security for my future.
How fascinating that you were really taking a double risk steering away from the conventional career models; first learning to be a jewelry designer and then being an entrepreneur on top of that!! Can you tell us very briefly about this plunge into entrepreneurship?
For six to seven years, I diligently pursued my dream, juggling part-time work as a radio jockey and other odd jobs to finance my passion. Throughout this journey, the unwavering support of my mother provided the emotional sustenance needed to navigate the trials of entrepreneurship. With each passing year, I held exhibitions, pouring my heart and soul into The Jewelry Project, gradually shaping it into a tangible manifestation of my artistic vision and cultural ethos.
How would you capture in a few words the meaning or essence of your creative impulse? If you were to encapsulate it in a few words?
My creative journey transcends the mere pursuit of aesthetic beauty; it embodies a commitment to cultural integrity and a steadfast resolve to challenge conventional norms in the realm of jewelry design. Beyond personal aspirations, my ambition encompasses the establishment of India’s premier jewelry design house, not as a product of familial privilege, but as a testament to the transformative power of cultural innovation. In essence, my evolution as a jewelry designer is an ongoing odyssey of self-discovery, tradition, and artistic expression. Through my work with The Jewelry Project, I endeavor not only to create exquisite adornments but also to weave narratives that celebrate and perpetuate the rich tapestry of India’s cultural heritage, guided by a dharmic footprint of responsibility to my roots and identity. And through this commitment, we have opened up gateways to cultural thinking, ensuring that our heritage thrives and evolves in the modern world.
As I hear there is a lot of focus on Design in your work and you clearly feel passionate about it, now with respect to your jewelry can you throw some light or elaborate on the design aspect? Basically what does Design mean for you?
Design, to me, embodies a conscious practice rooted in the principles of nature and the divine feminine, encapsulating the essence of ‘Bharatiya’ (Indian) identity. This realization dawned upon me during a serendipitous encounter in the bustling bazaars of Jaipur when a text from the Rig Veda (ancient Indian text) found its way into my hands, symbolically passed on by a stranger. Through this text and other resources, I unraveled the profound significance of jewelry in Bharat (India)—it was not merely ornamental but held the power of transformation, serving as a conduit for the continuity of energy across generations. This epiphany sparked an “aha” moment, prompting me to infuse contemporary jewelry with timeless wisdom and universal resonance. I began creating pieces that transcended mere adornment, imbued with the potential to evoke emotions, enhance lifestyles, and endure as cherished heirlooms. Sustainability, often trivialized as a buzzword, took on a deeper meaning as I realized the inherent interconnectedness and resilience of all life forms on Earth. This awareness guided my practice towards a kinder, more conscious approach, fostering collaboration with craftsmen and infusing each piece with positive energy.
There is a leitmotif in your conversations about the value and sacredness of being Indian and the Indianness associated with that identity. It’s obvious to me that your passionate love of the Land of your Birth and the one you Live in influences your work in the field of Jewelry. Would you please describe the Indian touch and how you connect with the Indianness element with your work as a Jewelry designer in rather concrete terms?
The Jewelry Project became a vessel for storytelling, weaving India’s rich cultural heritage into pieces crafted from natural materials and adorned with sacred gemstones. Each design, from the moon piece symbolizing life cycles to the flower arrow of Kamadev representing love and self-discovery, serves as a talisman steeped in tradition yet relevant to modern life. It’s a beautiful synthesis of anthropological study and ceremonial adornment, celebrating our relationship with nature and our collective journey towards kindness and consciousness. In essence, our jewelry echoes the voice of the goddess, resonating with stories from the sacred land while embracing the global influences of today. It’s a testament to the spectrum of Indianness—a harmonious blend of cultural heritage and contemporary sensibilities, rooted in reverence for nature and a commitment to mindful living. Through our designs, we strive not only to adorn but also to inspire, fostering a deeper connection to our roots and to the world around us.
Now at this stage, let’s do a ‘recce’ or stocktaking of this spirited incredible journey as a jewelry designer so far. Looking back, how would you summarize the journey so far in your eyes?
My journey as an artisanal jeweler has been a path less traveled, marked by challenges and triumphs alike. In an industry lacking supportive policies or organized movements for jewelry design, I found myself forging ahead with sheer determination and a steadfast belief in my craft. Neither the crafts councils nor the government recognized its significance beyond the mere valuation of metal. The initial hurdles were significant, with banks refusing loans and the absence of established avenues for support. However, I remained undeterred, guided by a sense of purpose rooted in my spiritual journey and a deep-seated passion for jewelry design. It was the intrinsic quality of my work that eventually spoke volumes, resonating with women who appreciated the artistry and authenticity behind each piece. Through word of mouth, my reputation grew, leading to opportunities and recognition within the industry. I have to also mention the invaluable support of friends in the media, who played a pivotal role in shining a spotlight on my work during the formative stages of my career. Their willingness to take a step forward, writing about me, photographing my creations, and vocalizing their support, provided a crucial platform for my burgeoning enterprise. In an industry where recognition and visibility are paramount, their contributions were instrumental in garnering attention for my unique approach to jewelry design. Through their efforts, my work reached a broader audience, laying the foundation for the success and recognition that would follow in the years to come. All of this and more led to nominations for prestigious awards and invitations to renowned fashion events, which served as milestones along the way, affirming the value of my creative vision.
Sorry to interrupt, but I am keen to learn about your global experience and encounters with the wider world outside the boundaries of India. You mentioned your exhibition in Paris…
Additionally, the opportunity to exhibit at Eclat De Mode in Paris (2010 or 2012) was a defining moment in my career, despite the financial hurdles it presented. But you see, events like this require the financial footprint or capital on a mass scale which wasn’t a logical possibility or something that matched the tangent of my enterprise at that point of the brand journey.
In many ways, while I was preparing for this conversation, I learnt about the fact that as a jewelry designer, you have adopted a very firm and committed position in the market as compared to similar players. What’s this uniqueness if you can elaborate for your readers here?
Despite the allure of mainstream media and the pressure to conform to established narratives in fashion hubs like Delhi or Bombay, I chose to stay true to myself and my roots, based in Bangalore. Financial constraints and the need for exclusive connections posed challenges, but I refused to compromise on my principles. Embracing my cultural heritage became a cornerstone of my work, even when it was perceived as “too ethnic” for mainstream fashion circles. Instead of conforming, I integrated over 25 craft techniques into my designs, making each piece a reflection of my personal journey and the rich tapestry of Indian artistry. Through platforms like Instagram and participation in exhibitions across India, I’ve been able to showcase my work to a wider audience. Today, I stand at a stronger place, able to invest in my business while maintaining a presence in top retail outlets worldwide. My journey as a jeweler has been a testament to the power of perseverance, authenticity, and a deep-seated commitment to my craft.
How Fantastic and Brave!!
While we draw this conversation to a close, can you please truly enlighten us about your fascinating Spirituality and the Philosophy of ‘Sadhana’ which you practice in your life and work? In many ways, as I understand you celebrate the Philosophy of the Sacred Divine Feminine. How does this Spirituality impact your work?
The journey of my jewelry design has been profoundly shaped by the sacred divine feminine, a force that permeates every aspect of creation and existence. As a woman navigating within a male-dominated and often commercialized industry, I felt compelled to infuse my work with the essence of the divine feminine, seeking to honor its wisdom, nurturing qualities, and profound interconnectedness. In a world where jewelry was often reduced to mere ornamentation, devoid of deeper meaning or symbolism, I embarked on a quest to reconnect with the sacred roots of adornment. Inspired by the teachings of ancient philosophies and the profound insights of Indian masters, I explored the rich tapestry of the divine feminine, seeking to embody its multifaceted essence in my designs. The Tantra collection, for instance, emerged as a manifestation of the harmonious interplay between masculine and feminine energies. Drawing from the sacred geometry of yantra drawings and the intricate balance of purusha and prakriti, each piece became a reflection of the divine union that underlies all creation. Similarly, the Loving & Longing collection draws inspiration from the timeless tales of Kamadeva, the god of love, and his enchanting weapon—the blooming arrow. Through delicate craftsmanship and intricate detailing, these jewels capture the essence of love’s many facets—passion, desire, longing, and fulfillment. Each piece becomes a testament to the eternal dance of love and longing, inviting wearers to embrace the full spectrum of human experience with grace and reverence. As wearers adorn themselves with these sacred jewels, they not only adorn their bodies but also embark on a journey of self-discovery and empowerment. Jewelry becomes a conduit for personal and collective transformation—a tangible reminder of our innate beauty, strength, and divine essence. Beyond mere aesthetics, my jewelry became a vessel for storytelling, a medium through which the timeless wisdom of goddess iconography found expression. From the graceful adornments of Lakshmi, the goddess of abundance, to the sacred symbols of Devi, the divine mother, every design was imbued with the sacredness of ancient traditions and rituals. Temple architecture served as a wellspring of inspiration, offering a glimpse into the profound symbolism and spiritual significance embedded within every detail. The intricate carvings, the ornate patterns, and the sacred motifs spoke volumes about the divine presence that permeated the very fabric of existence. By weaving together elements from diverse sources—from traditional South Indian temple jewelry to the luminous paintings of Raja Ravi Verma—I sought to create a tapestry of cultural heritage and spiritual reverence. Each piece became a conduit for the divine feminine, a reminder of the inherent beauty, grace, and power that resides within us all. Through conscious craftsmanship and sustainable practices, I endeavored to honor not only the divine feminine but also the artisans whose skill and dedication brought each design to life. By fostering a deeper connection between the wearer and the sacred essence of the jewelry, I aspired to create not just adornments, but talismans of empowerment, healing, and transformation. In essence, my journey as a jewelry designer has been a celebration of the sacred divine feminine—a journey of rediscovery, reverence, and remembrance. And through my work, I hope to inspire others to embrace the divine within themselves and awaken to the timeless wisdom that lies at the heart of existence.
Thank you so much for speaking with us at the CSM India Edition, and we wish you all the very best and good luck in your future endeavors!